Vogan and Aného

Went travelling again this weekend, after a long week of exams, plus an extra day off which was appreciated! Left Friday afternoon to see the market at Vogan. Did have rather a lot of difficulty finding a taxi, but ended up having the most luxurious ride I've had since being here - the two yovos in the front of a van by themselves! It was just heavenly in comparison although (Mummy close your eyes) seatbelts are just non-existent here and am going to have to think hard when I get back home after 7 months of just hopping into cars/vans/taxis/motos/etc... Arrived at Vogan mid-afternoon and despite not really seeing very much except a lot of cars, as soon as we got out and turned around the most enormous market every sprang up right in front of us. It was literally enormous. And everything was there! Raw food, cooked food, drinks, fabrics, clothes, fetish stuff, (which included snakes, crocodile skulls, feathers, shells and all sorts of random-looking things!) animals (alive and dead), medication, toiletries, things like nail varnish, household items, pottery, baskets, stationery, books - literally everything you could ever want in your whole life was there. It was just amazing!
And while we were gaping in awe at this, we spotted some kind of voodoo ceremony going on nearby, so we went to look. First we stood a little way back, near the market, but then a man traditionally dressed told us (in Ewé, which he continued to speak throughout despite us only replying in French...) that we could go closer, so we did. Then a totally scary, totally African, seemingly totally mad woman came out of the dancers and marched towards us blowing her whistle and shouting in Ewé. Unsurprisingly, we followed the example of all the little children around us and just RAN! It turned out she wanted money, and for me to put my camera away (so said the helpful man in Ewé) which we weren't about to pay so we just stayed well back. It looked sort of like a voodoo dance off - there were two groups, one of which arrived a little after the other, both doing the same dance as far as we could make out. But the bizarre thing was that the first group finished, and then  had a little rest, then half the group migrated over to the second group who were still dancing, having started later than the first. Then, the second dance came to an end and the first group started again,with apparently about double the number of people than it started with (we still don't really know where they all came from) and then the second group started again! It was really really cool to watch, but when we asked what it was for, nobody really seemed to know sadly.

So we then left the market for Aného, and it was a good thing we knew the name of the hotel we wanted to stay in because by the time we reached there it was dark, as here it starts to get dark at 6 and by 6.30 it's pretty much totally black. Got to Hotel Oasis and OMG - it's right by the lagoon, beautiful at night, and totally deserted! Asked for a room, were given one, had a shower in the ENORMOUS bathroom (comparatively), had supper and went to sleep - just so so easy.
In the morning we wandered round Aného a little, saw the old colonial buildings, and found the beach where we could swim. Was majorly hot, but by the sea with the wind it was just perfect. Then we got a taxi back to Lomé and all was just fine. Did have a slight surprise when I arrived home though; between 12 and 3pm everyone just goes to sleep here (as I do whenever I can!) and so I sent towards my bedroom to go and shower and get sorted, and there was a man just asleep in front of my bedroom door...! Don't think I've seem much so far that was so unexpected as that... It turned out just fine because he's Mama's nephew who has come to help his aunt (Mama's younger sister) who is not very well at all at the moment sadly but the jokes about my reaction to the 'gros monsieur togolais devant ma porte' will continue for a while I think...

Thursday, March 22nd...

On a random day off today as we've had exams in school since last Wednesday so today the teachers are going through the corrections and evaluations etc with all the people in charge, so there are no lessons. However, the poor children weren't told anything, so they all turned up this morning and didn't totally disperse until after 9am, having been there since about 6.15! Nobody seems to know why they weren't told, but the bells went off for the flag as well at normal time apparently (I slept through that bit...) - very bizarre.

Exams are tough here; sitting there watching them all last week, I had a total kind of epiphany of just how hard it is for these children to get anywhere. Not only are they working against the heat - which by the way they do suffer from, not in the same way as us, but they still sweat and need their fans etc, especially at the back of the class where it's just stifling - but they are also in competition with the noise from the primary school next door, from the next classroom; they're sharing pens/paper/pencils/rubber/crayons between about 4 and the benches are so uncomfortable that lots simply kneel on the floor (during 1.30/2 hour exams...). Plus the fact that the tests themselves often have to be corrected before they can start, and, something else which I hadn't fully realised until the other day, they're working in their second, sometimes third, language. They're not born with French, they often don't speak French at home and many of the little children in the street speak hardly any French at all. If the teachers speak to the children outside of lessons, it's often in Ewé and I never really realised that it's because it's more natural for them. Yes, they are bilingual but they're not born that way. It's not like being born with parents of different nationalities who speak in their own language from day one - that way you grow up with both, here they are taught French, even though everyone does speak it. Of course, I'm teaching English so I'm teaching them a third, sometimes fourth or even fifth language... No wonder I had an average of about 7 out of 20 for my 5é! There are other difficulties too, but they're not up for discussion on here.

It's only when you really think about these things that you realise what effect they have. When you look at the statistic that only around 43 percent of students attain the bac here it seems atrocious and you ask why. Then you look at the conditions in which they're learning their lessons and taking their exams and you understand. Not to mention that the majority of these children also work in the home, which means getting up at 4 or 5 and not going to bed until sometimes 10 or 11. At the age of 12, it's not at all surprising that they fall asleep in lessons.

On the bright side, had such a good start to the day here - woke up and had breakfast, watched furtively (occasionally not so furtively!) by the hundreds of children outside school as it's only across the road, and got so many laughs when I came to serve them in the shop in my pyjamas! Then there were two girls who installed themselves just outside us and started playing Bryan Adams 'Everything I Do' Celine Dion 'My Heart Will Go On' and just heaps more, which was so nice! In Europe... we just don't turn up and make ourselves at home on someone's doorstep let alone play music to them, and I really wish we did!
That is the real charm of Togo; the entire atmosphere is of friendship and community. You say hello to EVERYONE you meet, whether you know them or not, little children, big children, adults, old people - just everyone. And like this weekend, I'm going travelling to a voodo market at Vogan and then down to Aného, an old colonial town by the beach, and will be relying on asking people there where to go, where to stay and what to do because here, you can do that. Last week, one of the other volunteers met a guy in the street, they got talking as you just do here, and it turned out he was an artist. And when my friend asked if he could see his work, because he's also interested in that kind of thing, the answer was sure, come right now. And so he went! And had the most wicked time, got to use all the guy's stuff and took loads of pictures and all sorts! Because you just can here. At home, that wouldn't even be considered. And tbh, the offer probably wouldn't be made like that anyway so the option just wouldn't be there! But here, such is life!

Plus, at the moment it is seriously hot over here... The thermometer keeps reading 40/41 and today walked into a shop with air-conditioning at 29 and felt cold... Not saying it wasn't nice but wouldn't have wanted to stay in there for really that long!

x

Voyage à Kpalimé!

Some more travelling (at last!) this weekend - set off for Kpalimé, which is a moutainous little city/town right next to the border of Ghana, and only about 2 hours away from Lomé. Having been used to leaving extra early for any travelling, it was very odd to saunter down to the taxi station at about 8.30, especially as I'd already been awake for 2 hours which is unusual! In comparison to normality, the taxis for places like Kpalimé are superly organised - they have an office, including a man to run it and a ticket! Am pretty sure I haven't had a single ticket for anything transport wise since I've been here, they tend to reserve them for things like the Post Office which has inherited much of the French bureaucracy... So we paid our fare (the equivalent of 4 pounds for a 2 hour trip...) and were directed to a taxi. It was in pretty good condition really, as it still had all its windows and windscreen, plus all four wheels, which is often a rarity. A 7 seater minibus, it already contained 3 people when we got on to make it 5, but here in Togo there's always room for more of everything! After about 2 hours, 6 more people, and a roof-ful of lugguage of various sorts, we finally set off for Kpalimé; departure only slightly marred by a skirmish between our driver (sporting a rather fetching pink princess mobile phone holder on his belt) and another possible passenger, who had in fairness already entered another taxi. This minor factor didn't stop our man trying his absolute hardest to persuade him that in fact he would have a far better ride in our taxi. The other man didn't quite seem to see it himself, can't think why...

So after a comparatively short wait, and an extremely bumpy and noisy journey, we arrived in the town of Kpalimé! Our next challenge was to find somewhere to stay. So we headed for the cathedral (the largest and only church we could see) to search for a hostel which was supposed to be opposite. And guess what, it was there! And they had a room! We did have to do some explaining though because the question 'do you have a room for two, with two beds?' was met with much consternation and Ewé speaking and general confusion. In the end, the lady just took us to see the possible rooms directly - we then understood the confusion as every room has a Togolese double bed which I am sure is bigger than a standard hotel double at home! One of them hardly fitted into the room and we'd been asking for two so you can imagine what they must have been thinking... After such an easy find, we headed straight to the market to find some lunch. I unfortunately (or fortunately...) fell into the temptation of freshly made botoquins - literally just out of the oil! - which are basically like Togolese beignets and so bad but so good! We finally settled on a little café/bar which we'd passed within the first minute, and got a plate of spaghetti with chili tomato sauce and some meat (non-specific... I stayed veggie) which was ENORMOUS and cost 1 pound...

We had then planned to visit the Artisanal Centre, and also to do a guided butterfly walk from a place my Lonely Planet had recommended. However, despite being mentioned in the LP, the place for the walks was apparently non-existent. After many many explanations, and being driven round for miles by two taxis trying their best to help the yovos in distress, we finally gave up and just headed to the Centre Artisanale instead. As they say, all things happen for a reason, and we were not just a little bit pleased when it began to rain (Togolese style of course...) as we'd ended up with the indoor option! So spent a pleasant couple of hours looking round the Centre and seeing the men at work. I was SORELY tempted by a wooden elephant that had actually been made before my very eyes but resisted... and regretted it! The level of skill there is so high, it's incredible, but the prices were of course elevated by at least 3 times sadly. Was asked several times if I'd like a 'cadeau' but having already experienced the Togolese cadeaux in Lomé I politely declined! In general, cadeau just means slightly lowered price, so as I know I'll go back to Kpalimé I can wait. What a sensible girl!

When the rain stopped, we walked back to the hotel and having stepped over an electricity cable which had come down on the way there, we weren't surprised to find a severe lack of electricity. This did however pose a few problems - in order to have any light at all we had to have the door open, which attracted the mosquitos and we were also trying to shower at the same time which is not the easiest thing to do in the pitch dark, let me assure you. Had a small incident involving my soap and the loo... but all was resolved when the helpful men came round with candles and matches! We then went out to eat at a sort of famous hotel/restaurant called Chez Fanny, owned by a French/Togolese couple so serves French food. Had garlic steak-frites, and realised just how much I miss meat like beef! The only meat we have here is chicken, sometimes a meat sort of more like duck, or the packet frankfurters for salads etc. Then followed it up with a sugared crepe with vanilla icecream - YUM.

On Sunday, we continued the good food with an amazing breakfast in the same little café, which consisted of coffee/hot chocolate, bread and omlette cooked with tomato and onions - again for the same price and again YUM! The day before we'd met a man at the Centre who had directed us to a village called Kouma Konda where he was a guide and he knew we could do exactly what we'd been wanting to. So, because we're on an adventure here, we took him at his word (which more often lead to difficulties than success with the men here!) and found 2 motos to Kouma Konda. Bless the man, as soon as we got there we were greeted as friends and everything was explained, and within 20 minutes we'd ordered our lunch and set off on our guided butterfly walk, also including coffee and cocoa explanations etc, as well as pointing out of all sorts of medicinal plants, PLUS a waterfall! It was amazing to be in the middle of the bush there - it was just so so green! And cold too! We saw so much - plants to cure impotency, rabies, skin diseases, as well as all the plants they use for the vegetal painting which is very popular there. When we got to the waterfall we were a little reluctant as the water was chilly as chips, but we did it and it felt so so good afterwards! Our guide offered to take us up Mount Klouto as well, where we'd bee able to see Lake Volta in Ghana, as well as all of Kpalimé and beyond but really sadly we were seriously running out of time. So we hiked back up the mountain, to our lunch waiting for us. Then we finally found motos to go back down, got our stuff from the hotel and bought some avacadoes from the market to bring home before managing to find a full taxi. We hopped in, and were away! A more pleasant (though hotter) journey this time, as I had the most beautiful baby EVER sitting right next to me :) he even held onto my finger :D

All in all, a really good weekend! More good news is that we spoke to the children about this extra English/Human Rights club I want to start and had already 60 put their names down from only 2 classes!!! I know that at least half won't turn up, but that makes still between 20 and 30 who are genuinely interested in learning. It's such a good feeling to have, and seriously encouraging. Going to go through the lists with my teacher when we have the other one and then form 2 groups to go once each a week as there will be too many to have just one group, at least at the start. Will let you know how it goes - hopefully will start next Thursday with one group, and am pretty excited after that, but am also feeling the pressure! Definitely enjoying school more now, and even though they're naughty and noisy, the children certainly win prizes for cuteness!

Month Two: March!

Just a quick update to let you know I'm still alive. Which I am. (Here insert African applause in the certain rhythm they do, to the words 'ça c'est fantastique, ça c'est super!')

Rained again on Tuesday night and just as impressive - with lightening and REAL thunder this time... Am sort of looking forward to the rainy season I've got to admit! It could be a different country after and before the rain though, it's incredible to see it change from dusty, typical Africa to muddy, greener; more like England! Was very impressed with myself that although the rain woke me up, I then managed to go back to sleep for the usual 8 hours. That is the most I sleep here - last night went to sleep about 1.30am and woke up 6.30. Won't say I was ready for action cos that wouldn't be quite true... But it is interesting that with a little nap this afternoon I'm now totally up for going out tonight and wouldn't say that I was tired. Perhaps (god forbid) I am becoming someone who doesn't need that much sleep... I suspect that will only last while I am here though!

Had a massively amazing moment in school the other day (apart from preparing and presenting my first lesson, and starting a class alone...) - we had been doing exclamative sentences, using 'what/so/etc' and this lesson was on the use of 'such'. She wrote the title etc, just as normal, wrote the example sentences, then started to ask questions to the class and to start to explain it basically, when one pupil put up his hand and asked to make the sentence on the board using 'such'. And he did it! Perfectly! Without any kind of explanation really - it was just amazing!

Had to prepare a lesson for the 5è this week and have another to prepare for the 4è this weekend; went okish I think, they did a test on the text we'd covered with them in that lesson and most of them did well so I guess that's a good sign (although it was mostly repetition of exact phrases...). Going to see the CACIT organisation in the next few weeks, which is my next Project so excited about that!

Alison, the younger French girl who was living with us left last night and I was VERY sad to see her go. Just through living with her for 4 weeks, only 3 weeks of which she was actually there, I got to know her and although I really hope we'll stay in touch it's still made me sad. Two other volunteers also left today, and we have a new American who arrived last night and there is another Swedish girl who is coming or has come soon I think, but she isn't staying with us. So is all change here this weekend! Mama's son is also coming to stay for two weeks, arriving today. I am currently occupying his bedroom and there are many many jokes going on about what's going to happen when he arrives, and I can't tell how much is joke and what is serious... Could be an interesting time!

X